FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS about
Misc: repairs, electric boards, etc.
Q. Are some decks better for lighter-weight or heavier-weight riders?
A. Yes. The stiffness of your board relative to your weight determines the correct flex properties. Check out the Quick Guide and Flex Graph to find the right board for your weight and riding style. You want a board that complements your weight in order to get the full use of the design. For Long Distance Pushing/Pumping, this means a dialed-in flex for the best flex-to-rebound ratio. For downhill, this means a board that isn't too heavy, but is strong enough to endure the forces of skating.
Q. I don’t just do one kind of longboarding. What board do you recommend for someone who likes to do it all?
A. An all-around board is the best option, and we have a few boards that suit more than one discipline. The Shadow 37 and Ruse 39 are suited for commuting, and freeride to mild downhill. The Century 40 & Century 36 are built for pushing and pumping and make great commuting boards. The Spirit 30 is designed for slalom, downhill, and garage bombing.
Q. I’d like a board with a lot of response at lower speeds. What should I look for?
A. The Century 40 and Pulse 40 are designed with pumping in mind and would be best for quick response and agile turning.
Q. Do you build any ready-made platform boards?
A. In general, our platform boards are custom, but you can occasionally get a good deal on a platform board in our One-of-a-Kind section. On OK boards, make sure you consider the construction and the suggested rider weight when determining if that deck will work for you. (Coming soon - a limited run of production boards in the 2018 La Maquina design.)
Q. How hard and fast are the Ideal Weight ranges that you specify? I'm looking at a board in your one-of-a-kind section, but I'm just outside the weight range you say is ideal.
A. The ideal weight ranges are developed out of our considerable experience with crafting custom boards for a wide range of riders, so they are quite accurate and you wouldn't want to stray way outside of them. However, pinpointing the ideal rider weight for a One-of-a-Kind board is not an exact science - it is our best recommendation for the optimal range. If you are a little heavier, but are looking for a flexy ride, it may still work for you. Conversely, if you're on the lighter side, the board will have less response, but that might be what you want.
Q. I'm over 6' and 250 lbs. Are there any production boards that will work for me?
A. We wouldn't recommend a production board, but we can custom build any of our decks to your specifications. For your size, you would definitely want double composites for adequate strength and stability.
Q. I noticed that the Century 36 specs list the ideal rider weight as 130-170 lbs. I'm short and weigh about 115 lbs. Wondering if the Century 36 would be a good fit for me or if there's another board style I should be looking at? Any tips are appreciated.
A. That board can work for you, but for your weight it would be considered a Flex 2.5 instead of a 2 (though it wouldn't be as stiff as a Flex 3 - Check out our Flex Graph to see the weight ranges that correspond to different flexes for each board). The Century 36 could be a great deck for you as you continue to progress in the sport. Though it might be a tiny bit less flexy for you, it's a lively board and everyone who has tried out the model is impressed with the responsive feel when pumping and pushing.
Q. I'm looking for a pumping/carving board that can also be used for bowl skating.
A. The board we currently make that is a pumping/carving board is the Ruse 39. An experienced skater could also use it for bowl skating, but it's really a little too long to be optimal for that.
The Shadow 37 has a large kicktail which can be used in a skate park, and many skaters have used it for all types of skating. The board is more of an all-around board which can be used in a bowl.
Q. I'm a beginning rider with an interest in pumping, but I also do some pushing because of the terrain I ride in. I've done some research and your boards are known to be great for pumping. I was trying to customize a board on your site but I'm not sure what might be best for me. Can you make some recommendations?
A. The Century is probably your best bet for the type of riding you are doing, as it's a hybrid push/pump design and suitable for all levels of riders: beginners to more advanced. If you are looking for an all-around pushing/pumping longboard, then a Century would be the way to go.
Q. I know the Pulse is a great pumping board, but can it be used for pushing, too?
A. We do know riders who do both pumping and pushing on the Pulse, but the purpose of the Pulse is primarily for pumping. It's a topmount board which uses its leverage to improve the pump, so it puts you further away from the ground for really comfortable pushing. If you do much pushing we recommend the Century, which is our hybrid push-pump board. Though riders can use topmount pumpers in areas which require pushing (really any board can be used for pushing), some boards make it easier to do both.
Q. What are the differences between Flex 1, Flex 2, and Flex 3 in terms of which one is the stiffest out of the options?
A. Flex 1 has the most give, and then each flex gets more stiff until you get to the Downhill Flex.
Q. What flex do I choose for my weight?
A. For production boards, there is a set flex for each board with a corresponding ideal weight range: pumping boards at a Flex 2, pushing boards at a Flex 3, and downhill boards at a Downhill Flex. Please take a look at the Flex Graph to see what flex you might prefer given your weight and riding style.
For custom boards, it works in a slightly different manner. You input your weight and Preferred Flex into the Custom Board Builder, and we build the board to fit your desired flex perfectly.
For performance riding, most downhill riders will choose a Downhill Flex and most LDP riders will choose a Flex 2, which is what we typically recommend. Anything different would be your personal preference. Flex 1 is max flex, well-suited for lots of feel for carving, but would feel sloppy for pumping. Flex 3 is minimum flex, and is better for pushing and downhill where control is important. You can rest assured that if we see anything on your order that looks out of the ordinary, we'll contact you to make sure you get a board with the right specifications.
Q. My weight falls on the border between two flex options, so I'm trying to decide which one to choose. For pumping and carving, what factors should I keep in mind?
A. The rate of return or spring-back is quicker with the higher flex because it has less give than the lower flex. So for a quicker pumping response and tighter carving, the higher flex is your best bet. If you want a looser, flowing ride then the lower flex is what you're after. However, in the end, two side-by-side flex options are not significantly different. It's not like you are choosing between two extremes, it's more like just a step in one direction or the other.
Q. What flex does the Production Century 40 have? Would it work for my weight at 120 lbs?
A. The Production Century 40 is designed to be a flex 2 for riders weighing approximately 130-170. For your weight at 120, the Century would be a flex 2+, so it would still work for you depending on how flexy you want your board. The Century 36 may work better for you. We encourage you to check out the Flex Graph to see what flex works best given your weight and riding style.
Q. I'm 145 lbs and I like a flexy board. Would the Pulse Flex 1 hold up for me?
A. The Pulse 40 6-ply can be a good choice for you if you prefer slightly more flex to your ride. The 6-ply has a sheet of embedded fiberglass in it, so the durability of the construction won't be a problem, but it will be flexy for your weight. Take a look at our Flex Graph to see the rider weights that correspond to different flexes on our production boards. Even though you are slightly out of the suggested Flex 2 range, since you are looking for a softer board the 6-ply Pulse could still be a good choice for you.
Q. If I order all the parts, will my board come assembled?
A. Yes, if you order grip tape or other components, we automatically assemble the board - unless you've left special instructions asking us not to.
Q. When choosing a wheel for my set-up, how does duro and size effect roll times between pushes, carving, energy transfer, etc?
A. The size and durometer (hardness) of the wheels aid the specific purposes of skating (pushing, turning, speed, acceleration, grip). Larger wheels have the capability to achieve a higher top speed, while smaller wheels are more suited for quicker acceleration. Durometer can affect how well the wheels perform. Softer wheels (like an 80a) roll smoother on rough pavement and grip more. Harder wheels (like 83a) roll better on smooth pavement and maintain speed longer. You'll feel these differences more at extremes of riding - otherwise it doesn't make as much difference.
These features transfer to different styles of riding in various ways:
• Pushing - large hard wheels on smoother surfaces work better.
• Carving - small soft wheels allow quicker turns and a smooth ride.
• Pumping - smaller wheels allow better acceleration.
• Freeride - soft small wheels allow more control when sliding.
• Downhill - large soft wheels provide optimal speed with grip.
Q. I am considering buying your Spirit Slalom deck. What would you suggest in terms of a set up with respect to hanger size? This set up is going to be used for pumping, cruising and some downhill. I've heard the width of your truck axle should closely match the width of your deck.
A. For the Spirit 30 Slalom, we recommend hangers no larger than 140mm. The goal is to keep your wheels more under the board. Since distance from outside to outside of your wheels is determined by your trucks and your wheels, your wheel choice is an essential part of the overall decision. Bigger wheels deliver more traction, but wheels that stick out beyond the edge of the board have some disadvantages.
Though there may be some mental advantage in feeling more confident about how wide your entire setup is, the more your wheels are inside the profile of your board, the less likely to accidentally step on them or kick them while you are pushing. If you avoid wheels that stick out, then you may having a tighter feel about where you can thread into. Since your feet are in direct contact with the board edges, you get more immediate neural inputs about where your board is. If your wheels stick out further, then you have to take a secondary mental step about how close you can get to a corner, or another rider's board. Your level of experience plays into what's recommended.
Q. What's recommended for an all out distance push set up?
A. The GT 40 is our dominant pusher, mixed with a symmetrical truck setup and large wheels to keep the momentum high. Randal R3 180mm/50° trucks and Orangatang Kegels 80mm are what we suggest.
Q. I would like your opinion on a new distance push-pump setup. I currently ride a pumper with Bennett/Tracker combo. I like powerful pumping at speed, pushing to build up momentum. Currently I have my rear truck quite stiff, de-wedged to nearly 0, and the front truck probably stiffer than most to maintain stability going down hills. It's a good setup but time to experiment with something new.
I like the look of the Century 40 with the ability to lock your front foot into the drop (and it's a gorgeous board). I also notice that many distance skaters are riding G-Bomb brackets so La Maquina is a strong candidate. What do you recommend for maximum pumping power, speed, and distance comfort?
A. If you are strictly doing pumping, we would recommend the Pulse, since it's purpose-built for pumping, though it can be used for some pushing if you don't mind that you're further from the ground. If you are looking for an all-around pushing/pumping board, then a Century would be the way to go. It's a great longboard because it can take you from beginning riding to more advanced. If you want to move up to a top-tier LDP board, then the Illuminati or La Maquina will suit you well. We recommend them mostly for LDP competitors.
The Century 40 is probably your best choice, unless you are at the top end of skills. La Maquina + G-Bomb brackets is like the Formula 1 version of LDP. It's a good choice for people who travel to LDP events and are doing really serious training. All-wood/composite tends to be more comfortable than board/bracket combos, and better suited for the vast majority of riders. The step up to brackets is also a big cost step, since you pay for a board, trucks, and the brackets, but if you're ready to move up to the top level, then La Maquina and Illuminati are favorites among the LDP elite.
Q. I'm looking to purchase a GT40 board for long distance pushing and wonder if you have any trucks or specific truck sizes to recommend? I'm looking for a relatively narrow setup and am thinking to go with the 85mm Seismic Speed Vents.
A. Thanks for asking about a Subsonic GT 40. It a great choice for LDP. The GT 40 works with nearly all symmetrically set-up trucks, narrow and wide. We offer the Randal R3 180mm/50° trucks as the suggested setup on the GT 40. Since you are looking for a narrower setup, we recommend trucks that are between 140-160mm. This is what many LDP riders go for to make sure the wheels are under the board and not sticking out. The more the wheels stick out, the more likely you are to step on them when kicking, both on the plant (front truck) or the follow through (rear truck). For something narrower, you could upgrade to Don't Trip trucks. Best choice for the GT 40 would be an option offering stability, like the Euphoria, with a hanger width greater than 150mm.
Q. Do I need to add wedging to the Pulse in order to get it to pump? I realize that I might want to eventually try different wedging, but would it be relatively "pumpable" right out of the box?
A. Our Pulse Complete is built in a way that can be pumped right out of the box. For pumping, you want the front truck to turn more than the back truck, and the Bennett-Vector front truck allows more turn and has a higher angle plate than the Tracker RT-S that we put on the back.
Adding an angled riser to the rear to reduce the angle even more would make the pump better, so that's the easiest part to add to your setup to get better pumpability - as would new and better bushings. We suggest Riptide Bushings APS for nearly all pumping and pushing boards.
Q. I love to carve and even do a limited amount of dancing. I don't push much because of foot pain, but I have a land paddle and enjoy using that. I am looking for a board to do almost entirely pumping and paddling. For the type of artistic or surf-like carving/pumping that I do, can you recommend the best set-up. It seems most of the forum posts ask about very long-distance pumping and pushing as opposed to a more intense, carving-like pumping that I prefer.
A. From the details provided, here's a suggested set-up that is best suited for people getting into the pumping scene. If you are just starting out, you'll want to have a board and set up that is specifically designed for pumping, for an advantage in the pump. As long as the set-up as a whole is right, the Pulse 40 is a great board for pumping and land paddle. It's one of our best-selling boards for that reason and the board we'd recommend to you with this set-up:
Front Trucks: Bennett Vector 6.0
Rear Trucks: Tracker RTS 129
Wheels: Orangatang 83a In Heat 75mm
The Century, a hybrid push/pump board, could also be an option. The Century has a Wedge/Dewedge system built into the design. The heavily dropped platform allows for a much easier push than traditional Top-mount, making it easier on your body to push when necessary. The Century is the board we suggest when learning to pump and push.
At this stage of the game, we would suggest waiting on a board using G-Bomb Brackets. They are great pieces of hardware, but they're a slippery slope for those wanting to learn to pump. The brackets are meant for riders who have a lot of experience with the field, to have the ability to adjust their setup quickly or who need extra weight reduction for the races they compete in. When learning, having fewer factors that change the way the board moves is better. As flashy as they are to look at, and fun to ride, they aren't a recommended item when you're starting out. And they add to the cost considerably, but this is a case where the "better" item does not help you learn quicker or perform better. For learning, a solid maple deck and a decent truck setup will be better in the long run, keeps the cost down, and take you a long way before you need the next setup.
Q. When customizing the Pulse 40 on your website, I'm still hesitating if I will buy the Bennett-Vector 5.0 or 6.0 for the front truck. Opinions are divergent on the internet in regards to the combination of sizes for front/back trucks. Some think both trucks hangers should be the same size back and front, others say it's better to have a wider truck in the front, and a little smaller in the back. A lot of people seem to like the Bennett-Vector 5.0 in the front, with a Tracker RT-S 129mm in the back. Many more seem to like the 6.0 in the front better. I'm thinking to buy a 6.0 for the front, and a Tracker RT-S 149 for the back.
A. There is no rule in skateboarding that says you need a symmetrical setup, or even symmetrical width trucks. It's all how you want the board to perform. Overall, the width of trucks work best when matched with your style of pumping. If you tend toward smaller pumps, narrower trucks provide better grip and handling, while wider trucks are better suited for larger swinging pumps.
The Pulse 40 is really a purpose-built board for pumping and is best with a directional set-up. Most pumpers run a narrow rear truck, and whichever front truck best suits them. While a wider rear truck is more stable, when pumping, one wheel can come off the ground due to lack of leverage, which doesn't help the pump. A narrower truck will have more grip. When pumping, this is important once you get to top speed so the wheels won't slide out suddenly. The rear truck is also typically a lower degree, meaning less turn. A wider front truck has a larger turning radius and takes more effort to turn from one side to another, as opposed to a narrower truck which has a smaller turning radius and takes less effort to turn from one side to another.
When considering the front to back difference in hanger widths, the purpose of a narrow back is to provide more grip and less overall turn, aiding in the pump. Partnered with a low-degree rear truck allows the back truck to track with the front very well. This is where the RT-S succeeds. A wider front truck allows the front to pull during the pump, and the narrow rear will push you during the pump. Both aid you, so it's hard to go against it.
Q. I am looking to buy some DT Poppys for my Century 40 and don't know which width to get. What is the best width on that deck for pumping? I'm over 200 lbs and running some narrow Bennet/Tracker combo right now and it seems really narrow, do I get the Poppy 125-131-137-143mm hangers, or the 152-158-164-170mm?
A. Recommendation: 152-170 Poppys. Just remember to keep your front base plate angle less than 65 degrees (overall, account for Century's 10 degree wedge). You can fine tune this increment with small angled risers from our website.
A wider truck allows for a larger turn in the pump, creating more rebound from the flex to push the board back towards center. Good: more leverage on the truck, bigger pump. Bad: hard at slower speeds (>8 mph). Simple: Larger hangers better for maintaining top speed.
A narrower truck allows a quicker pump, mostly attributed to the bushings returning the board towards center. Good: less body energy to pump. Bad: not as high of a top speed (<10mph). Simple: Narrow hangers better for acceleration.
Rider weight can influence this a bit. Lighter riders generally pick quicker pumps, and heavier riders use bigger pumps. This can usually be explained by energy exertion; lighter weight is easy to move quickly, heavier weight is easier to keep momentum.
Remember, bushings also change how the trucks feel. So if you're not fully satisfied, try out some different duros. Stick with one company, though. (Riptide bushings suggested for anything less than 25 mph. Very lively and responsive).
Q. Just want to know if you have bushings available; at 120 lbs I am probably too light for stock poppy or delirium. Do you have options for riptide bushings?
A. For the bushings, we can ask Don't Trip to put in their softest bushings for you. We recommend 65a for the front and 75a for the back due to your weight. It is worth experimenting to find out what your preferred bushing duro is from Riptide.
Q. I do LDP and I'd like to keep my platform board as light as possible.
A. Adding composites can lighten your board, as they often replace a wood ply, but it's really the brackets that contribute the most weight to your board. You might consider the G|Bomb Torsion Tail because that adds the least amount of weight of any of the brackets, since it doesn't require a truck. There is also the option of adding a foam core to your board. That takes 3/4 - 1 lb (.34 - .45kg) out of the board. The exact amount depends on your weight and the construction of the board.
CUSTOM BUILT BOARDS:
Q. Do you take custom orders?
A. YES. We love building custom boards. Please check out our Custom Board Builder to start the creation process. Questions about building a custom board can be directed to firstname.lastname@example.org
Q. How long does it take to make a custom board?
A. Most custom boards will ship within 10 business days after payment is received. After staining the maple face plies, the board is laid-up with the correct materials and pressed in our custom-made presses with our proprietary molds. The board then needs sufficient time in a climate controlled room to cure before the CNC and milling work is done to create the final shape. Rails and wheel wells are stained if that’s been chosen, then each board gets 3 coats of clear coat (6 on the rails!) before the graphic and grip tape go on. Foam core boards occasionally take a few extra days, but you will be notified if that happens.
Q. Are the colors and stain pattern on a custom board mirrored on both sides?
A. It’s totally up to you! Most people use the same colors and patterns on both top and bottom, but because it’s a custom board, you can choose whatever colors or patterns you wish. Some people are very specific about what they want and give us detailed notes and pictures on how they would like their board to look. Other people might just pick out colors and leave it up to us to be creative. It's really your choice on how much you want to specify.
Q. What do top and bottom composites do for the board? And what about the option of foam core?
A. Composites add strength and durability to the board, and potentially make it lighter. They are a necessity for riders over 200 lbs. Most riders add composites to the exterior of the board, but they can also be embedded if an all-wood exterior is preferred. Foam core makes the board lighter, but it's really more of a option at the top end. When you pick up a foam core board you can tell it's much lighter. However, that kind of optimization isn't really needed until you are trying to improve mileage at competitive endurance events to compete with the top 20%.
Q. I’m trying to decide which composite to use: fiberglass, carbon fiber, or Texalium. What should I take into consideration?
A. Adding any of the three composite materials to your board will beef up the structure and make your board more durable. Composites can be added to both top and bottom, or to one side only. If just ordering one sheet of composite material it’s recommended to have it on the bottom.
Fiberglass adds torsional strength to the board. Carbon fiber is the stiffest of the three and works well on the bottom of the board for a solid base. Texalium is a lighter-weight fiberglass with an aluminum finish. Some riders choose one material for the top and different one for the bottom.
The major difference is in the finished look of the board. Carbon fiber provides a satin black finish with barely any visibility to the wood underneath. Texalium has a flashy silver tri-axial weave that also covers the wood below. Fiberglass, on the other hand, is translucent once the resin has cured, so stain colors and patterns on the wood are visible through the weave of the glass. All three are good choices!
Q. I'm putting together a custom board and it looks like carbon fiber might be a good choice for the bottom in order to increase the durability over the life of the board. How will composites change the flex?
A. Carbon fiber will definitely strengthen your board, help preserve the flex, and make the deck more water resistant, since the epoxy used to bond the composites protects the exterior from water. Composites can also greatly improve the aesthetic look of the board.
Composites add structure to your board, allowing us to alter the original layup to suit your desired flex and they make the flex more consistent over the life of the board. Over time, boards will relax slightly through use, but composite boards stay true to their original shape longer than a maple version under the same stresses. Essentially, composites make a board a little less flexy to start off with than a comparable all-wood board, and it won't get soft on you nearly as fast.
Q. I'm trying to keep my board as light as possible. Will fiberglass or any of the other composite materials add significant weight to the deck?
A. Composites potentially lighten your board because they frequently replace a wood ply. The overall structure ends up being determined by your weight and the flex you choose.
Q. I'm 165 lbs and plan on using my board to pump for commuting around my campus; what flex would you recommend if I'm putting carbon fiber on both sides of the deck?
A. Most riders who pump and push choose a Flex 2, and that's what we would suggest for your riding style and weight. When building a custom board, we consider your weight, the composites you want, and the board you've chosen, then adjust the number of plies the board has to achieve the flex you want.
Q. I've been doing competitive LDP events and want to have a custom platform board made. What should I look for when comparing the Illuminati and the La Maquina?
A. The Illuminati and the La Maquina are our two main platform decks and both have their strengths. The Illuminati is primarily a pushing platform, designed for a consistent and stable ride. The La Maquina is a hybrid push/pump platform designed for added leverage in the pump without compromising the ability to push with either feet.
The refresh on the 2018 La Maquina makes it a directional design, which facilitates pumping, over a symmetrical board like the Illuminati which is optimally designed for pushing. The directional design of the La Maquina does not compromise the board's pushing prowess, it just improves pumping.
Q. Can you customize the length or width of a deck?
A. Yes, within some limits, there is an option for customizing the length or width of a custom built deck. Max length is 42" (106cm) on most boards, and max width is 11.5" (29cm). Since the features of each board are unique, there may be other limitations.
Note that changing the length or width of a deck won't expand or contract the board features proportionally. For example, if you want the deck to be an inch shorter it would be trimmed from the nose and/or tail, not from the riding platform. You would let us know if your preference is to have the extra material removed symmetrically from both ends or if you want it all removed from only one end. Changing the platform length to a drop deck cannot be done, as it would involve a costly change to the existing mold.
Also, a heads up that the end result may not be the perfect measurement you want. We'll get it as close a possible, but since it will be hand-shaping it could end up just a tiny bit more or less. There is an additional charge for the shaping when you request it on the Custom Board Builder.
Q. Can I request a full composite wrap on my board?
A. No. Unfortunately, we don’t offer full composite wraps.
Q. Can I send you artwork or images for a custom board?
A. Unfortunately, no. We customize length, width, flex, color and just about everything other than graphics. You can choose from any of our standard graphics or specify no graphic.
Q. Hey Guys - I have an old century 40 deck that got broken. Wondering if I could get a quote for a bracket on back and for you guys to chop and clean up the back side of the board. Just miss riding that board around.
A. We have reshaped several boards for riders who've had some damage like yours. Doing one end is a $30 charge or both ends is a $50 charge - plus the shipping. For the brackets, you'll want to do a little research to see what's best for you. You could use a G|Bomb Deep-drop bracket or a G|Bomb Torsion Tail which is the same price, but eliminates the need to buy a truck. The Don't Trip Delirium bracket/truck combo is also a great option.
Q. I have an old Subsonic board that isn't on your website anymore. If I send you picutres, can you make another one form me?
A. It might be possible. We still have some of our molds from former years, so it's worth sending us a few pictures of your board to assess and send you a quote if it's possible. It would have to have a bit more hand work done on it than we typically do, because we don't have CNC fixtures for the old designs, but that's usually not a problem.
Q. I am working on a project that requires an extra thick longboard deck, something along the lines of a 14 ply for an electric skateboard. Do you guys do custom decks like this or have any idea where I could find one? I will route out part of the bottom of the board and have the battery inlaid slightly to keep thickness to a minimum.
A. We have a few boards we can do in a 14-ply: Vega, Pulse, Illuminati, Borealis. These boards have the least amount of drop. Drop boards can only take 9 plies max due to the press limitations.
Given that it takes double the materials and significantly more manufacturing effort, the price is twice that of a regular deck, whichever one is chosen. Since a 14-ply board isn't compatible with the CNC fixture for the regular deck, it would have to be manufactured fully by hand, which drives up the cost. If you are interested in purchasing one, you can do so through our Custom Board Builder. Just select a custom deck you want and for the quantity put in 2 instead of 1, then it will charge you the appropriate amount. In the Notes section on the Checkout page, state that you are purchasing one 14-ply board instead of two boards.
Q. I'd like to build a custom platform deck that is extra long and extra wide so I can mount a battery on the bottom for an electric longboard. What are my options?
A. We can build an Illuminati up to 34" long and 10" wide. There is a $20 shaping fee on the Custom Board Builder for that option. An extra 6 inches adds about 20% more distance to the wheelbase, which means a considerable amount of leverage on the board, resulting in a flexier deck. So for most riding weights you will need double composites, and possibly additional embedded composites to achieve a flex sufficiently stiff enough for your purposes. When you put in your weight in the Custom Board Builder, don't forget to add the weight of the battery, modules, etc. to your rider weight before entering.
Q. I'd love to be sponsored by your company. I have been longboarding for 3 to 4 years and am really committed to the sport.
A. Thanks for inquiring about representing Subsonic. At the moment we are not on the lookout for any official team riders, but we do hope you'll stay engaged in the skating community and keep an eye on the Subsonic brand.
Q. What kinds of shoes do you recommend for better board grip and comfortable feet?
A. For better board grip, your best bet is sticking with a gum-soled shoe. In addition to Vans, some riders wear Adidas Samba, particularly for downhill and everyday riding. Some long-distance riders go with a Vibram shoe, so that might be worth trying. A number of riders use insoles - both custom and off-the-shelf - to keep their feet comfortable during long hours of riding.
Q. I'm shopping for the first time on your website. What's the discount for the users like me? Can you send the discount code to me?
A. Thanks for your interest in a Subsonic board. Our decks are built with uncompromising quality and are already priced to deliver value to riders, so they are rarely discounted. We hope you still find one to your liking. Sign up for our email newsletter to keep in the loop and find out the few occasions when we offer a discount or premium.
Q. Do you offer Private Label/OEM manufacturing?
A. YES. Please contact email@example.com regarding OEM services
Q. How do I go about changing the shipping address on my order?
A. If your board hasn't shipped out yet, we can easily change the shipping address on your order. Just send us an email or give us a call. If the board has already gone out and it is an international shipment, it is unlikely we can do anything about it. For a domestic shipment, we may be able to process an address redirect with UPS. However, there is a fee associated with that and it adds time to your delivery. If it is urgent and you want to go that route, please contact us.
A better option might be to have the board held at a UPS center until you can pick it up. You can make that arrangement yourself by clicking on your tracking number which will take you to the UPS tracking page for your package. From there, click on the Change Delivery button to see what options are available to you.
Q. Can you ship my package overnight or with expedited shipping?
A. We're sorry, but we are not currently set up to do expedited shipping. Our experience is that it's generally cost prohibitive for the size of packages we ship. There is the option of having it held at a UPS Shipping Center for you to pick up, so you don't have to wait for the delivery, which could save you about a day.
Q. I'm not home during the day, and it's not secure to leave a package at my address. Can you specify on the shipping documents that my package should only be delivered after 6pm?
A. For domestic shipments there are two shipping options that might work here: we can require a signature for delivery (additional shipping fee), or you can have the package held at a nearby UPS Shipping Center for you to pick up at your convenience. (You can also have it held at a UPS Store, but that usually adds to the delivery time.)
Q. I'm interested in buying a Subsonic longboard deck. With shipping to Canada from the US I usually get extra custom fees. Do you know if there will be such fees with the shipping carrier you use?
A. Thanks for inquiring about a Subsonic deck. We generally ship Internationally through USPS, because their international shipping rates are so much more competitive than other carriers. Occasionally we can ship UPS Ground to Canada. Custom fees vary by country and product, so in your case they will be levied by Canada. You can look online at a import duty calculator for estimating your custom fees.